Visual taste

Sweden’s Island Summer

Posted by Liam Reilly on 27-08-2026

Holiday Topics

Sweden’s famous Stockholm archipelago attracts much of the attention, but travel a few hours south and the Baltic coast becomes noticeably quieter.

Östergötland is a maze of nearly 9,000 islands and rocky islets stretching through Arkösund, Sankt Anna and Gryt, with forests, tiny fishing communities and almost endless places to launch a kayak.

This is not a destination for rushing through a checklist. Come for four or five days, move slowly between the coast and islands, and leave room for swims, boat journeys and long summer evenings when darkness barely seems to arrive.

1. Start in Arkösund

Arkösund makes a natural introduction to the region. The small harbour sits where the mainland dissolves into scattered islands, with wooden boardwalks, marinas and easy access to the water.

Spend the first afternoon walking along the coast or taking a short boat excursion before staying overnight near the harbour. Arkösunds Hotell, a historic property dating from the late 19th century, offers doubles from around €198 including breakfast based on current advertised starting rates.

Recommendation: wake early at least once. Summer mornings here can be exceptionally bright, calm and almost completely silent before boats begin moving through the harbour.

Arkösund

2. Visit Tiny Aspöja

From Arkösund, continue by boat towards Aspöja, one of the archipelago’s permanently inhabited islands.

Only around 25 people live here throughout the year, and there are no cars. Groceries and post are moved from the jetty with communal wheelbarrows, while meadows, granite outcrops and traditional wooden houses fill the interior. It is the kind of place where lunch becomes part of the experience: smoked fish, potatoes, dill and locally produced ingredients suit the setting better than anything elaborate.

Tip: respect the local rhythm. If a small island or landing place already has a kayak or boat moored there, choose another spot when possible. With thousands of islands available, solitude is rarely difficult to find.

3. Kayak Sankt Anna

The Sankt Anna archipelago is where Östergötland becomes especially rewarding for paddlers. Sheltered channels weave between granite islets, while the outer archipelago becomes increasingly exposed and dramatic. The protected area is particularly rich in seabirds, and sea eagles are among the wildlife that can sometimes be seen overhead. Beginners should book a guided half-day or full-day outing rather than immediately attempting a multi-day route.

More experienced paddlers can turn the journey into a miniature expedition, camping from island to island under Sweden’s right-to-roam traditions where local restrictions permit.

Recommendation: pack a dry bag, warm layer and lightweight rain jacket even on a sunny morning. Baltic weather can change quickly once you are away from shore.

4. Sleep Beside the Water

For a comfortable base near Sankt Anna, Skärgårdsbyn Mon combines hotel-style accommodation with immediate access to the archipelago. Rooms include breakfast during the main season, making it convenient for travelers planning early-morning paddles.

Using current advertised starting rates as a guide, expect accommodation from around €117 per room. This is also a good place to slow the itinerary down. Spend one evening eating beside the marina rather than immediately moving on.

Best plan: stay two nights around Sankt Anna. Use one day for kayaking and the second for swimming, walking or simply following the coast without a schedule.

5. Take a Boat to Harstena

Further south, Harstena is one of the most atmospheric islands in the Gryt archipelago. Red wooden cottages cluster around small bays, while the island’s history is tied to fishing, seal hunting and generations of families who survived from the surrounding sea.

Harstena lies about six nautical miles from Fyrudden. During the main summer season, boats operate from Arkösund, Tyrislöt and Fyrudden, making the island accessible even without your own vessel. In 2026, regular summer services run between 17 June and 23 August. The old schoolhouse, harbour and walking paths make Harstena worth several hours rather than a quick photo stop.

Recommendation: stay overnight if possible. Once the day boats leave, the island becomes considerably quieter.

6. Finish in Söderköping

Return inland for a completely different side of Östergötland. Söderköping is a small historic town at the eastern end of the Göta Canal. Rent a bicycle and follow the towpath, stopping for coffee, ice cream or handmade chocolates along the way.

Budget accommodation at Mangelgårdens B&B currently starts at around €72 for a single room and €99 for a double, including breakfast. A summer package at Söderköpings Brunn with accommodation, breakfast and dinner is around €149 per person sharing.

What Will It Cost?

A comfortable four- or five-day trip can be kept reasonably simple.

Allow €93–€198 per night for the accommodation styles featured here, then add boat transfers, kayaking and meals.

Traveling overland from London through Brussels, Cologne and Hamburg to Norrköping can start from around €130 one way when the lowest advance fares line up, including the overnight rail section.

Once in Östergötland, spending more time in fewer places is usually both cheaper and more enjoyable.

The ideal trip is not about covering all 9,000 islands. Base yourself in Arkösund, spend real time kayaking around Sankt Anna, make one journey to Harstena and finish beside the Göta Canal. Östergötland works because there is always another quiet island ahead — and very little reason to hurry towards it.